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Sure! sorry for the length.
1. This is from the text after video 3 (A failed defrost system in a refrigerator). This section begins with, “Sometimes, you can’t tell visually…”
2. This is from video 4 (GE TMNF Adaptive defrost systems). The portion about 4:20 is what confused me. I understand the other process, with the door switch.
3. This is just a general question. When I watch some of these repair videos, the freezer is obviously empty. I remember we are to instruct them to leave it shut an plugged in until we arrive. I was just asking best practice – do they also need to leave the food etc. in the freezer and you take it out when you get there?
4. This is from Video 5 (fixing an iced up bottom mount freezer in a Maytag-whirlpool refrigerator). He is cleaning the drain water with hose/mouth at about 6:25 and references using salt water, but I didn’t see this happen and do not understand what he means.
Generally, when this drain gets clogged and there is no obvious reason, what do you tell the customer and how can you assure them it won’t happen again (and is actually fixed)?
I’d also add – at 5:38 he says he’ll use a plastic knife if in danger of puncturing “these tubes,” are these evaporator coils or are there other tubes I should be concerned about?
Thank you!!
No, no. That makes sense. I mean I’m not sure I would have remembered that if without having found the information in another answer post.
Luckily, this schematic says it. This one sort of confused me, I’m not sure why. If it was the element being above and the lights below but protector being attached to the element etc. Or if it was the vocab. with hot light switches, temperature limiter, protector, etc. But I read the the underlined portion and it just did not click what it was saying. It makes more sense now, I appreciate it.
I was thinking of the RTD unit (module 3, unit 4), when it talks about RTD use in surface elements. That picture of the RTD surface element (no box) and the thermal limiter element (box) stuck with me, where you called out the lack of box for thermal limiter on the RTD.
I was just a little turned around in this one. I understand now. Thank you.
If the load opens, no electron flow. It would lose neutral and no longer have current.
I was confused why we were not considering the thermostat as a potential issue (meaning a problem that was contributing, like an open, etc.) but if the only problem that could occur with the thermostat is it opens, and that would open the circuit completely and stop all current, then it does not really need to be considered (because we know the circuit is not open). Understood. It is hard for me to find where the path for neutral and L1. Based on the “theory of” picture that was part of the video, I understand it will get L1 via the ignitor side and N via the gas or safety valve side. And I can trace the L1 side to the thermostat, which looks like L1 connects to as well, so can assume it gets L1 there. But Neutral is harder to understand. Regardless, I understand, and this shouldn’t matter because the theory of picture explained it. Thank you again.
Thank you. I understand. Much appreciated.
I suppose what I mean is – we have L1 connected to neutral with a load on the way. The electrons with AC go back and forth etc. I do understand that, I think. But in this case they jump the gap (understand that aspect), ignite the gas, hit the burner head, and go…. where? Do they all go to the module to complete the circuit? Do they go to the ground on the appliance and are just sensed by the module? If I was grounded without resistance and was touching the burner head when the ignitor was engaged, would I be shocked?
The current that is detected via “FM,” where do these electrons go? Do they actually return to the module and via the neutral connected to it?
Or do they go to the ground connection for the entire appliance?
This spark doesn’t result in any shock risk?
Thank you. Much appreciated.
Thank you!
Ok, thank you!
I think what I was not understanding was that the board would open a relay to L1, which makes perfect sense. For some reason, I imagined the circuit still being complete, but the board somehow not sending power (without an open), which does not make sense. So measuring P2-6 to P1-1 would measure 0 volts (with LoZ) because the element is open and the circuit is not closed.
Hello.
Pop quiz 1 = 240 (subtracting a negative is the same as addition)
Pop quiz 2 – You would not measure a difference. The 120 volts coming from L2 would be present at both points, so the difference would be zero.
Bonus – I think it was called half splitting, but I remember the technique from the core. I think it would be good for me to review though.
Sorry to keep you, feel free to move on. I think I might be overthinking this and confusing myself. In this case, the element is bad. So I can’t measure L2 on both sides of the element. This is what I mean, whether or not it is correct….
The element is open, whether it is the element or the connections etc., current can’t pass through it.
If I place a probe at P2-6 and a probe at P1-1:
Scenario 1: the board has killed power to P1-1 because it does not sense the bake element, but it has not killed power to P2-6 because L2 is present for the upper right convection element (we assume). As long as P1-1 and the connecting wires are still intact, would I still measure 120V, because this is the difference between the V being supplied by L2 wrt L1 (the open bake element is not allowing current from L2 to reach the other side)?
Scenario 2: the board hasn’t killed power, and I would read 240V regardless of the open status of the element because the difference between these two points, due to being out of phase, is 240V.
Sorry to go on. I realize this isn’t very relevant for troubleshooting and fixing this oven, but now I worry I might have misunderstood some core concepts. Much appreciated.
Hello. Thank you for the thorough answers.
1. I guess if the board might be killing power to the element anyway, checking voltage could just confuse me because i would see no voltage and not understand why. Or I guess I might see 120volts? Because L2 would still be active (bc the convection element is working) but if the board killed power to the bake element, p1-1 would be off?
Voltage looks like p1-1 to p2-6.
2. Parallel. Thank you. I thought this must be the case but the schematics we have been looking at made that more clear with the lines. Rather than the usual “T” intersection, this has it leading to the convection and then away so I wanted to make sure this wasn’t something new.
3. Great. Thank you. I was worried I was misunderstanding something. Much appreciated.
Clarification.
1. Not “bad element” etc. but an open in that circuit.
2. I guess with the schematic, the two elements are usually drawn as parallel. So that the bake element could get L2 but the convection element not get L2 because of an open there etc? Is that a parallel circuit, or are they in series as far as L2 is concerned? I just haven’t seen it drawn like this. On the wiring diagram.
Sorry for the questions.
Thanks a lot, I really appreciate it. I look forward to watching them. Knowing that the assembling, disassembling, and more physical processes are outlined in the service manual, as well as the easy part, is reassuring.
Thank you!
Hello. Thank you.
I do have appliantology. So the actual steps to the physical processes, like accessing the control board and replacing a TCO, are the easy parts and directions are found in the service manual. That’s a relief. I’ve understood and enjoyed the core course and range course, but couldn’t help but feel underprepared because I haven’t seen the actual process of repairing something.
Thanks again.
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