fbpx

George

Forum Replies Created

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • in reply to: Troubleshooting real life #12936

    Thank you for the compliment. I couldn’t have been able to proceed without your guidance and wisdom so thank you again.

    Ahh, so that explains why there are 2 tech sheets for the dryer: the 120 V is for the controls and the 240 V is for the heating elements. That definitely threw me for a loop.

    I will be there at the upcoming Monday Office Hours — looking forward to it!

    George

    in reply to: Troubleshooting real life #12931

    Thank you so much for the help!!

    I read the tables for the error codes very carefully as you suggested. The dryer beeped 6 times, paused, and beeped 5 times. That corresponded to a “high Limit Thermostat trip count too high.” The table said to check for vent blockage. We looked in the vent and found rags. http://imgur.com/a/OiVvZ

    It turns out the laundry room had undergone a major renovation during the winter. The contractor stuffed the vent with rags to prevent cold air from coming in. He did tell my wife, but she evidently forgot about it. So again, you are right on the dial!

    Now as to your other questions (

      – What do you notice right off the bat about the dryer “timer”?
      – How does this inform your troubleshooting strategy? (hint: remember from the TST special notes about loads with algorithmically-controlled power supplies)

    Maybe you can talk about this during this upcoming office hour. I’m having a hard time understanding the dryer schematics. I can’t seem to find the dryer “timer” in the diagram. In the manual there are 2 schematics for the dryer — one for 240 and another for 120 V. Which one should I look at? I also don’t know what you mean by TST special notes — do you know what module that is in?

    Thanks,
    George

    in reply to: Troubleshooting real life #12900

    Model number: FFLE1011MW2

    Schematic diagram: I opened the panel of the unit but could not find the diagram. I’ve uploaded a picture of where I’m looking. https://ibb.co/eRMQaQ
    It’s strange because the owner’s manual says that we should look in this panel.

    Thanks,
    George

    in reply to: Troubleshooting real life #12898

    Ok got it. You’re right! Let me collect the information and think about it logically with the ten steps …

    in reply to: Unit 7 question #12445

    Hi Sam,

    I’m confused. I’m actually following the diagram that is posted in your video titled “Dryer Question — 2 switches in a series with a load.” In that video, it shows L1 flowing through the door switch then to the start switch and then to the load.

    My table was constructed with that assumption. So are there errors in my table?

    Thanks,
    George

    in reply to: Unit 7 question #12440

    Sorry let me recreate the table.

    Door Switch / Start Switch / Voltage across Door Switch using low impedance meter
    ——————————————————————————–
    Open /Closed / 120 V
    Closed /Closed / 0 V
    Open /Open /0 V
    Closed /Open / 0 V

    Is my thinking correct? Thanks.

    in reply to: Unit 7 question #12438

    Hi Sam

    Thank you for the addition 2 videos. I do have one more question regarding the two switches in series example.
    The following table shows the 4 possible permutations of open and closed switches.
    Switch 1 is the door switch; switch 2 is the start switch.

    <TABLE>
    <TH>Door switch<TH>
    <TH>start switch/TH>
    <TH>sVoltage across door switch using low impedance meter/TH>
    <TR>
    <TD>Open</TD>
    <TD>Closed</TD>
    <TD>120 V</TD>
    </TR>
    <TR>
    <TD>Closed</TD>
    <TD>Closed</TD>
    <TD>0 V</TD>
    </TR>
    <TR>
    <TD>Open</TD>
    <TD>Open</TD>
    <TD>0 V</TD>
    </TR>
    <TR>
    <TD>Closed</TD>
    <TD>Open</TD>
    <TD>0 V</TD>
    </TR>
    </TABLE>

    Is my thinking correct?

    Thanks!

    in reply to: Unit 7 question #12434

    Hi Sam,

    Ok thank you very much for the information. Very interesting point about the loading meter.

    Happy 4th,
    George

    in reply to: Open circuit #12432

    Thank you!

    in reply to: Unit 7 question #12430

    Hi Scott,

    Thanks for your explanation. So in summary, to determine the viability of the door switch, one needs to measure voltage across the door switch. If the door switch is malfunctioned, one may either see an on open circuit or a door switch that is acting like a small undesirable load. I think I got that — the point about arcing is a nice pearl!

    I’m still confused about what happens if the door switch is “malfunctioned” (whether showing up as open circuit or increased load) and one measures across the push to start button. So instead of measuring across the door switch, you’re measuring voltage across the push to start button. I hope my question makes sense.

    Thanks,
    George

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)