Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
ok,got it
thank you for the clear and long answeriv reposted the questions in the apropriat module and unit sorry for my mistake
by the way why did you prefer doing ohms test over voltage test in this case?
thanks,got it
i have some questions about the 4th video at 4:00 you did ohms test for the heating element
what live test could you do from the timer instead of ohms? i mean across what points would you check the heating element for 240vac? i tried to find EEPS for voltage test but i didnt
2.after veryfing both that R contact is ok and the heating element has contiuity when checking the controls you could also do a live test measuring across timer contact BK or even R to timer contact OR and look for 0vac, and if you had read 240vac then youd have known that one of the controls is open.m i correct?
im sorry, iv previously made a mistake calling out differnt unit.MODULE 4 UNIT 4 is the correct page and unit,
all my questions are reffering to the video called USING ELECTRICALLY EQUIVALENT POINTS TO TROUBLESHOOT AN ELECTRIC DRYER WITH NO HEAT,i count from the top of the page and its the 4th videoim sorry, iv made a mistake calling out differnt unit.MODULE 4 UNIT 4 is the correct page and unit,
all my questions are reffering to the video called USING ELECTRICALLY EQUIVALENT POINTS TO TROUBLESHOOT AN ELECTRIC DRYER WITH NO HEAT,i count from the top of the page and its the 4th video
MODULE 4 UNIT 4.what you hav described is called a short.
on the contrary,L1 connects to one side of the broken element. The other side of the element is connected to Ground. The broken element IS the load-this condition is NOT a short since we have a load in between L1 TO GROUND but in Israel we have a device in the breaker box which looks like a breaker and fuction as a GFCI (its desinged to work even under 240vac no problem at all)and when it detects a minimum certain amount of amparage going through it,this special breaker will trip,and he will do so in the situation exactly like this when one side of the element touches the ground,as GROUND should not do the job of neutral,but its ther only for protection in case there is a current leak.
that why it seemed a little weird to me.thats right! if L1 contacted the metal casing it would trip the breaker.
so how come in this case of one side of the heating element contacting the casing didnt trip the breaker too?
thats what i dont understand
2.what differnce does it make if L1 directly contacts the casing or one end of the element contact the casing? after all the other end of th broken element is still connected to L1by the way why did you prefer doing ohms test over voltage test in this case?
thanks,got it
i have some questions about the 4th video at 4:00 you did ohms test for the heating element
what live test could you do from the timer instead of ohms? i mean across what points would you check the heating element for 240vac? i tried to find EEPS for voltage test but i didnt
2.after veryfing both that R contact is ok and the heating element has contiuity when checking the controls you could also do a live test measuring across timer contact BK or even R to timer contact OR and look for 0vac, and if you had read 240vac then youd have known that one of the controls is open.m i correct?you didnt disccuse thermostat heater on this webinar but additional heat will cause the bimetal to pop open faster or sooner than if were lower heat,this additional heat will cause the bimetal to reach its temperture limit faster
“There are two thermal fuses in this (and most) dryers, as you learned when you watched the dryer thermal controls webinar recording. Manufacturers like to call them different names but we don’t let that fool us because we’re sharp techs who focus on function, not labels. In this dryer, the two thermal fuses are called “thermal fuse” and “thermal cutoff.” The “thermal fuse” is located on the heater can and has a much higher temperature rating than the “thermal cutoff” which is located on the blower housing. So while the heater did not produce enough watts (heat) at half voltage to open either the “thermal cutoff,” the hi limit, or the operating tstat, it was enough to open the “thermal fuse”
1.at half a voltage much lesser heat will be produced ofcourse not letint the cycling tstat or hi-limit to open when needed,in this case the thermal fuse that went open wouldent get enoufe heat too since a decreas in in heat will also affect the thermal fuse on the blower housing dosent it?
2.going by the schematic on the webinar recording if the heat produced wasent sufficient to open the tstat which is rated at 150 degrees while the thermal fuse is rated at 196 degrees
so it stands to reason that the operating tstat will cycle on and off (since heat affect all all the thermostats in the system)plus the fact that they both posintioned on the blower housing,thats what i cant seem to understand.unless you meant that the thermal fuse went open as a resault of a holding tempeture rather than functioning temperture in which case this can definitly occure .m i correct?
3.this grounded elemt is not a short condition but since L1 is contacting the metal casing of the element it become a coductore(part of the wire path) and if someone touch this heater can he will be zapped.
4.if it was a case of 120v load L,N AND GROUNG and L would somehow touched the the metal casing (for example the line wire or the winding inside the motor come loose or brack and contact the metal housing of the motor or line voltage touch the chasis) and someone touch the any metal part of the machin what would “happen” to him?alright,now im clear on that issue, thanks
first,centrifugal switch cut off power to the start winding after the motor reaches 80% of its rated RPM caus the motor dosent need it at this stage,and seconly,it connects L2 to the heating element causing it to get into action and heat up
ok,i got
thanksok thanks
-
AuthorPosts
