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Yes that makes sense! I didn’t think to rewatch the last video for that unit, I will do that now. Thank you for explaining.
I am reviewing the quiz answers and I still don’t understand the answer to Question #20 on Module 3.4.
The question is : “You’re on a service call for a Whirlpool Duet Front load washer that is not draining. What’s an easy way to test whether the drain pump winding has failed open that requires zero disassembly and no electrical measurements?”
The answer is “Set the washer to fill and see if water comes into the drum.”
Is the inference that if the drain pump switch has failed open (meaning drain pump can’t work) then washer won’t fill with water for some reason?
The word winding is being used to mean switch which is kind of counterintuitive to me but that’s not the main part that I am confused about.
It’s just unclear why that would be a technician’s plan of attack.Thank you! I forget the form page. Will do.
Am I wrong to assume we are measuring a load and not a switch that is the two timer contacts?
I guess if the drain pump has a 120 volt operating voltage and not a 5 volt operating voltage it makes sense. Thank you I think I get it.
Thank you!
Ok very good. I might do that. Thanks, Susan!
Yes I am! I am currently doing a little DIY troubleshooting on my washer with the 10 step tango method and will post my questions in DIY section at Appliantology.org. Thank you. (Have so far run service test #14 for spin however all LEDs went off at the end of the test so not sure if feedback is given at end of service test.)
Ok thank you for help with those. “Connected to the same load” would be more like L1 and L2 on a heating element for a voltage test or line and neutral on a load. I can see how I got confused there. Still not 100% sure I can personally locate EEPS yet in my own practice as I’m still learning disassembly, reading tech sheet and working through hypotheticals with the appliances I have access to but will keep these points in my notes. Thank you.
February 14, 2024 at 9:53 pm in reply to: Gas dryer: in a video light blue is Line 1 and black wire is neutral #25800Actually to answer my own question, he says “If you want to know if there is voltage coming to the whole gas burner system you can just put your meter on the blue and the black” to test for voltage. Still not sure what the white wire is… maybe ground?
October 30, 2023 at 12:46 pm in reply to: Pressure Switches, Thermostats, and Sensors 8.2 quiz #25396Yes it does! Thanks for explaining.
We cannot have current in one part of a circuit and not another.
Yes this makes sense thank you.
(I googled microswitch and realized my hypothesis about it was wrong also. Thanks for clarifying.)
So you will get the expected voltage output (12V), just not current.But hypothetically, if this was an AC circuit, and you measured between the Comm and the NO terminals of a switch, it would only get 12 V or whatever is the expected voltage output more likely 120V, whereas other parts of the circuit (EEPs) would be getting current, correct? Because when you say a live voltage test you mean really a live current test, for example, that the electric dryer is not just plugged into the wall but on a working dryer cycle, correct?
Ok I reviewed #9 from the mid term and it helped to see why 0 VAC if one side of circuit is open for #16,17. *I know that N does not connect to heating element only L1, L2.
Figure 9 on MidTerm indicates that 0 VAC across a heating element is a sign of open on one side of circuit.
I get #21 now. I did notice both terminals on element were fine or producing expected voltage drop during the half splitting live test in the video.
Thanks!
I missed #16,17,21
On #16 I got confused because I didn’t realize that you are not half stepping when you measure L1 to N or L2 to N with both wires plugged in.
When you did the voltage measurement from L1 to Neutral and L2 to neutral you got 120 VAC each time because the wire was either working fine or reading back voltage through a parallel circuit through the neutral wire.
But when you isolate the heating element it shows up as 0 volts because neutral is not helping to complete a parallel circuit and apparently heating element either reads all or nothing if it’s only receiving 120 VAC?( I would expect it to read at least 120 VAC across the heating element even if one side had a problem but I guess that is not the case? )
So you would disconnect power. Disconnect one of the wires either L1 or L2 and measure with 1 lead touching a unpainted metal surface or neutral lug on terminal block and other lead touching each wire (connected and disconnected) one at a time. This live test should reveal which is the problem side that is not receiving 120 VAC.
#17 The wording is tricky in 17. You are just half splitting a heating element but disconnecting the motor centrifugal switch L2 side. If the L1 side is getting power then the L2 is the problem side.
#21 I’m not sure what is meant by missing leg – I can only imagine it means which line was disconnected from the heating element in the live test and I thought that was L2?
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