Susan Brown

[Susan Brown]

Voltage is a *relative* measurement. It is describing the difference in charge between two points. One of those points is often Neutral, which is at ground potential, which we designate as “0v”. It doesn’t really mean that there is no charge in the earth – we just call it Zero.

So, saying “there is no absolute 120volts out there somewhere” is an accurate statement.

Of the five statements we give you in this question, all are accurate except this one:
“There is no absolute 10 amps out there somewhere”
So that is the correct answer choice for this question.

[Susan Brown]

Unit 6 question 5: “The regulated pressure for natural gas appliances is”
Correct answer: “5-7 inches wc”

We mean coming from the meter.

As Sam said in the other thread about this, The exact pressures will vary a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer. What we gave in the unit was some general specs. The important takeaway for you is just that natural gas is used at lower pressures than LP.

[Susan Brown]

Hi Alexander – please see this thread – does that answer the question for you?

https://my.mastersamuraitech.com/appliance-repair-course-support/student-forums/topic/natural-gas-pressure/

[Susan Brown]

Hi Phillip – you did the right thing by submitting the reset request form. There can sometimes be a delay since one of us has to take care of it manually. You are all set now!

[Susan Brown]

Question: What characteristic of a heating element does NOT, by itself, make it an electrical load?

Here are the possible answers:

It is composed of high-resistance wire.
It produces heat (ie., does work) when current flows through it.
It has a voltage drop across it when current flows through it.

Two of these are classic definitions of electrical loads. One is a characteristic that some loads have, but by itself does not make something an electrical load.

We are asking you to identify which one of the three does not make something an electrical load.

The first part of the explanation is, “Although it is true that a heating element is composed of high-resistance wire, this is not what makes it a load.”

So the answer we are looking for is “It is composed of high-resistance wire.”

Does that make it clear?

• This reply was modified 1 week, 5 days ago by Susan Brown.

[Susan Brown]

Don’t think about the functioning of a gas dryer at this point – this is a circuit analysis. We’re practicing understanding voltage drop and shunts in a series-parallel configuration.

(Also – there’s no element in a gas dryer. Just valve coils and an ignitor)

120v for the Safety is correct. It is parallel to everything else and has direct access to L1 and N without going through another load.

Do the “Zen Trick” that we taught in the first video in Unit 5. “Become” the ignitor – how do you reach N? And do the same for the Booster. Do you go through the closed switch, the Main coil, or both?

That should help you understand the function of the closed detector switch.

[Susan Brown]

Hi Carlos,
I can help you here, but if you need a reset in the future, please use the “Quiz & Exam Reset Request” form in the “Campus Support” menu. Thanks!

Q1 you have correct now.

Q5: the primary purpose of the breaker panel is to protect the various electrical circuits in the house should a short or overload condition occur.

Q6: at the panel, any 240v circuit will have two circuit breakers (since they are connected, they are often called a two-pole breaker).

Q8: In a circuit breaker panel, L1 and L2 are connected to the main breaker.

Hopefully these will all make sense as you review the unit. Let me know if you have any other questions.
I reset you.

[Susan Brown]

mi respuesta seria la 1.on the pinout for board. gracias.

That is correct. (Eso es correcto.)

[Susan Brown]

Good question! Household batteries are low enough voltage that they can’t overcome the resistance of our skin to produce current that we can detect. One exception that I’ve heard of, but never tried myself, is if you use your tongue on a 9v battery – apparently it will create a little zap.

Other things to keep in mind: if we are soaking wet, then our conductivity increases. Also, DC is less dangerous to humans than AC.

[Susan Brown]

This is such a rare occurrence that, in our opinion, Kleinert should not have included it in the list. Overheat and humidity inside the dryer can, on rare occasion, cause increased drum roller noise. But this is not one of the leading indicators we would look for.

[Susan Brown]

Faulty door latch is NOT one of the reasons

[Susan Brown]

For Question 3, “Temperature sensor” is NOT one of the correct answers. The other 3 you chose are. (Thermostat, Pressure switch, Heating element)

The second question I think I didn’t select both of the options.

Correct – you only had selected one answer. There are two correct answers.

[Susan Brown]

Sorry, I didn’t mean which instrument you used. I meant where did you put the two probes?

[Susan Brown]

I had an element 24-oms, with 9.5a, and when I put my meter across the element it was 228v..
This was where i was a bit confused at the time, there was a difference of 7v between supply voltage 235v and the voltage across the load 228v.

There are a couple of things that could cause a small discrepancy in voltage like that. There could be a small resistance (loose connection or something) elsewhere in the circuit. You can also get a small “sag” in voltage (a small decrease in the supply) when a lot of current is flowing. How did you measure the 235v?

[Susan Brown]

1. A twisted door boot

2. Broken drum support spider
Failed support shock/shocks

If those don’t make sense, let me know!

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