Susan Brown

[Susan Brown]

Your comments make me think of our articles/videos about Dummy Directions and other problems with technical documents, which is why a tech needs to have this know-how!

Here are a few of them:

https://appliantology.org/blogs/entry/1259-video-errors-omissions-and-dummy-directions-in-service-manuals/

https://appliantology.org/blogs/entry/1260-master-samurai-tech-radio-episode-29-appliance-repair-triage-tools-or-dummy-directions/

https://appliantology.org/blogs/entry/1256-schematic-basics-lg-wall-oven-no-heat/?tab=comments#comment-2863

[Susan Brown]

Interesting… screens for the valves, or in the hoses? Do you have a part number I can look at?

[Susan Brown]

Hi Scott,

“The ignitor stays on the entire time the burner tube is ignited in a gas oven.” Not the entire time the oven is in use. Does that clear it up?

[Susan Brown]

Hi John,

Since your question is about a specific appliance model, it should be posted at the repair forum at Appliantology and the folks there can help you out.

The Ask the Teacher Forums are for questions more directly pertaining to the coursework.
Thanks!
susan

[Susan Brown]

Hi Mohammed,

Understanding equivalent resistance is a key part of understanding parallel circuits/loads and how they function differently than when loads are in series.

Many loads are in parallel with each other. Here’s an example in a refrigerator.

If you measured the resistance from Pin 13 to Pin 7 and got 40-something ohms, you might not know how to interpret that reading. But understanding Equivalent Resistance would let you know that you would expect to read something less than 58.

[Susan Brown]

Hi Daniel – please check your email – I just sent you a note.

[Susan Brown]

Yes, and when that little screen (filter) on the valve has become clogged, you don’t want to try to clean it out – just replace the whole thing. You risk pushing the grit further into the valve when you try to just clean off the screen.

[Susan Brown]

Hi Michael,

The Fluke we are showing there is the one that the Samurai happens to have and use. It has been a great one.

Appliance techs don’t need a whole lot of fancy stuff, but the main feature you want to make sure your meter has (in addition to the usual items) is a LoZ function.

~ Susan

[Susan Brown]

Hi Terrance,

The correct answer is, “This is not a valid measurement”. Remember that DC voltage has to be measured wrt DC ground, not chassis ground or neutral.

[Susan Brown]

You are right about the Main being shunted. Are the ignitor and booster in series with each other or in parallel?

[Susan Brown]

Hi Tyler,

The main problem with your answer for Part 2 is saying that L2 is faulty. That is not what the measurements in Figure 2 on the Midterm show. Also, remember that we tell you in the problem statement that the diagram is not a complete one – there could be a switch or other component that is causing the problem. We just want you to describe what you can conclude based on the info you have.

[Susan Brown]

If the bulb is blown, then the circuit is open and there will be no current flow.

[Susan Brown]

It’s a little hard to discuss without seeing a diagram. A shunt is usually created by a switch that closes, so I’m not sure where the switch is in your scenario. When you say the light is “out” – do you just mean that it is off (not lit), or that it has blown?

[Susan Brown]

In parallel circuits, each circuit has independent access to the power supply. Remember my goofy little drawing in Unit 5 showing the “Zen trick” of becoming the load and reaching out to L1 and N? So if one circuit fails open, only that circuit is affected. The other circuits in parallel with it will still have their 120v (or 240v if an L1-L2 circuit)

[Susan Brown]

I have no idea how that is happening. No wonder you were frustrated. I’m sending you a copy of the tech sheet via email right now. If you can email me what you pulled up, I would appreciate it. Either download and attach it to an email, or send a screenshot.

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