Susan Brown

[Susan Brown]

Hi Ed,
I just emailed you about this…

[Susan Brown]

A short or an open? These terms have precise meanings.

From Mod 3, unit 1:

Short: A condition that creates a circuit that offers no resistance to the current flowing through it. A direct short will cause a fuse to blow, or possibly start an electrical fire.

Whereas an open is just that – some break in the circuit (open switch, broken wire, for example) that prevents current.

If the fault is on the L1 side, how do you explain this measurement?

You use your meter to test for 120 V AC from one of the terminals of the light to neutral and you read 120 V AC on your meter

[Susan Brown]

Hi Darren,
The Final Exam covers material from the entire course.
🙂

[Susan Brown]

Yes, that’s correct!

[Susan Brown]

You haven’t been asked this exact question, but you just have to think about what the measurements are showing you.

It’s a safe assumption that we’re talking about a 120vac circuit.

We’re telling you the light bulb and receptacle that the light bulb is in are good.

There will be two wires going to the bulb, correct?

One is Line, what is the other?

Then, think about these two voltage measurements, and what you can conclude:

1. one side of the bulb has 120vac wrt N
2. when you read across the bulb, you get zero.

Let me know what you think…

What

[Susan Brown]

Well, much better to over-think than to under-think! In my opinion, you were just thinking it through. We’re always happy to help.

[Susan Brown]

Correct, 1 and 2 would not be able to get to N if a break happened there.

This does not change their status as being in parallel with each other. The electrons that go through either 1, 2, or 3 (when there is no open anywhere) do not have to go through one of the other loads to get to L1 or N.

[Susan Brown]

Both of those diagrams show 3 parallel circuits. If they are functioning, they are electrically equivalent. (Assuming the loads are the same.)

The slight difference in configuration only makes a difference in terms of how a break in the wire at certain points would affect the other branches, which seems to be what you’re getting at.

[Susan Brown]

Do you mean where I put the “x” below?

If so, the “Zen trick” will determine this for you… what do you think? Label the parallel circuits 1, 2, and 3. (Circuit 1 would be the one closest to L1, circuit 3 closest to N)

Good question, by the way.

[Susan Brown]

Hi Ed,
I’m having a hard time figuring out what you’re asking. Are you talking about these diagrams?

[Susan Brown]

Hi Duane,

It’s because that is what the 4031 error code identifies as the suspect load when we did the diagnostic mode (see the previous unit- look especially at the explanation for Question 3 in that quiz).

[Susan Brown]

Hi Tim,

Here’s a video that shows the calculation (using different values for the resistances). See if this helps.

Also, some people get a slightly different answer from us, depending on how you treat the decimal numbers (if your round them off differently than we do).

https://www.youtube.com/embed/iHB3lxdc68E

 

Let me know if this helps.

[Susan Brown]

Hi Robert,
That question is best to handle by email – I’ll send you a note now…

[Susan Brown]

Hi Robert,

A noble goal!

You’ve already got a great start, by taking the Core course. That gives you a solid introduction. I would encourage you to watch the videos in Basic Electricity and the Troubleshooting Module more than one time. Also, ask us questions here if there’s anything you don’t quite follow.

We have other courses that will give you more training and practice: Advanced Troubleshooting and the Oven & Range Repair.

We also have dozens of hours of webinar recordings that you can watch at Appliantology. Many of them involve going over schematics, or doing case studies using schematics, etc.

There are no short-cuts to becoming proficient at reading and using schematics. It takes time and practice. Just be sure to use all of the resources you have available both at Master Samurai Tech and Appliantology!

[Susan Brown]

Hi Davy,

In a split phase motor, the start direction of the motor depends on the polarization of the start winding relative to the main winding. (Polarization of the winding is which end gets Line and which end gets Neutral.)

In order to reverse the direction, the motor has to come to a complete stop, then restart with the polarization of the start winding reversed from the original direction. This is what cams 2 and 4 are doing.

Make sense? We do cover this in more detail in the Washer & Dryer course.

[Author]

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