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You can create a cheater cord – described here:
But watch this. Easier to have a generic start device for testing.
Which module/unit is this from?
Is a hi-limit a switch or a load?
It’s best to think of a load having a specific fault, and not just “bad”. It will help your thinking. Look at the schematic again. If the drain pump fails open, then neutral will not be fed through the drain pump, as shown in the video (about halfway through). In that event, the two measurement points will be at the same electrical potential.
We’re happy to help, but please answer the question I sent you via email first
We’re happy to help, but please answer the question I sent you via email first
We’re happy to help, but please answer the question I sent you via email first
You should also watch this webinar at Appliantology:
https://appliantology.org/topic/72423-voltage-voltage-drop-loads-switches-jumpers-cheaters/
An excerpt from Module 3, Unit 8:
Voltage is most simply described as the force that pushes electrons along in a circuit (the actual movement of those electrons being what we call current). Voltage is the prime mover or cause in a circuit. Everything else that happens in the circuit is an effect. When there is a difference in voltage between two points in a complete circuit, then electrons will move: they will be pushed away by the more negative voltage and be sucked in by the more positive voltage, a push-pull kind of a deal. The directed movement of electrons from that difference in voltage between two points is called current.
Voltage Drop, on the other hand, is an effect caused by electrons being forced through the resistance of a load by that voltage difference between two points.
This concept about Voltage Drop is key, so we’ll state it one more time: A Voltage Drop across a load is produced when current flows through that load.
When we talk about Voltage Drop, we’re always talking about a specific load that has current flowing thorough it. That’s why it makes no sense to talk about the Voltage Drop at a wall outlet that we’re checking with our meter, for example, because there’s no current flow and no load (the meter doesn’t count as a load– a good meter should never load the circuit enough to make a difference).
If you have an open anywhere in the circuit, this means current won’t be flowing and you won’t measure a voltage drop across any of the loads in that circuit. You may be able to do voltage measurements wrt N to determine if the open is on the Line side or Neutral.
This is a switch, not a load. Loads do have line on one side and neutral on the other (assuming a 120vac power supply). That’s not the case for switches.
The other two options are:
Defective water pressure switch
Someone removed the protective screen on the water inlet valve letting sediment into the valveThanks for asking about this. We evaluated the question and answers and decided that it isn’t clear, so we added another bit of information to the question.
Here’s the question now. See if this helps you figure out the correct answer:
Question #6: You’re on a service call where the washer overfilled and flooded, and didn’t stop filling even when the customer unplugged the machine. What do you suspect?
Ah – I just sent you an email before I saw this. You are now correct! I did reset you.
December 19, 2019 at 3:16 pm in reply to: Question #12: Which of the following is NOT one of the points made about voltage #17814Awesome – so glad to hear it!
December 19, 2019 at 12:27 pm in reply to: Question #12: Which of the following is NOT one of the points made about voltage #17812That’s correct!
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