Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
Good job, Mike. This shows that you have learned a lot of the principles that you need to know in order to decipher any schematic. You already know more than the majority of techs out there (we know – we have been dealing with them for years!). Our courses are about teaching principles and giving a few examples to help. As you go out there and apply these principles to the schematics you encounter (both in real life and online – in our webinars and YouTube videos), you’ll continue to grow in proficiency.
Hi Ed,
Good question. The convection and bake elements are in parallel, not series. The configuration you see there for the red wire is called a daisy chain. It is helping to supply power to both elements, but is not causing them to be in series. You’ll often see daisy chains in the burner switches for an electric cooktop, as well.
And I’m glad that you know the convection element isn’t a switch! 🙂
Yes, if the detector switch were open, then the main coil would be in series with the ignitor and booster, which are in parallel to each other. So – that would be a series-parallel configuration.
Hi Darren,
Could you please give me a little more detail? Which video, and at about what point in the video? Thanks!
What we encourage you to do is think about what the function of a pressure switch or transducer is (also called a water level switch) and how it works.
If you understand how a part functions, then you can easily deduce what malfunctions you would expect to see caused by a defective pressure switch or transducer.
We cover this in the Water Fill Control Systems unit.
What do you think?
Hi Dean,
Please use the Contact form at Appliantology for this so the proper Admin can help you.
haha- PChem was over 30 years ago… would definitely be testing my memory!! Organic chemistry would be what would really make me cringe.
Questions are good!
The first one you mention has Fixed taps – this resistor offers two choices where you can get different resistances by connecting to one of those two taps (the vertical lines coming down off the resistor).
The rheostat is adjustable. “Pot.” stands for potentiometer. The tap is adjustable (thus the arrow, rather than the lines like in the fixed one). (You could search for more info on those terms if you are curious, but that’s probably all you need to know for most appliance repair work.)
Hi Darren,
Good job paying attention!
We decided to remove that second, parenthetical mention, as it wasn’t really important to the point.
AC current does change direction 120 times per second, but completes a full cycle 60 times per second. That’s where the two numbers can come from.
😀
Good question.
Context is important!
In appliance repair, we are interested in power that can drive a load so it will do work. This requires sustained current, which can only happen in a closed circuit with a conductor (wire).
Things like lightning (or even the spark in a spark module on a gas cooktop) are momentary discharges that happen when there is a large voltage difference.
Do you see the difference?
I answered the question that you asked.
First of all, you’ll know based on the system that you’re dealing with (DSI vs. HSI). You’ll know this by looking at the schematic, which you will do before you go on the service call (right??).
But there are example photos in the videos as well.
They are two different types of valves and function differently. The only thing they have in common is they both convey gas.
The gas valve in an HSI has a bimetal and a heater – no solenoid.
Rewatch the portions of these videos on the valves:
DSI system (solenoid valve)
https://my.mastersamuraitech.com/module-9/cs5-compare-measurements-results-specifications/Hot Surface Ignition (“safety” valve)
https://my.mastersamuraitech.com/module-10/cs6-schematic-review-initial-findings/(I moved your reply to your original topic)
Here’s the original problem statement:
When you walk up to the range you find that the left-front hot surface indicator light is on even though the surface is cold. That’s pretty much all the verification you need, but you go ahead and turn each burner on momentarily until the indicator lights come on, then turn them off. Sure enough, the left-front element’s light remains on while all the other ones turn off once their respective element cools down.
So, the LOI is one of the 4 lights that are each connected with a burner – the one for the LF burner.
There is also a single hot surface light that apparently comes on when the glass surface is above 150 degrees (according to the info on page 1 of the manual that we gave you) but is not connected to any particular burner.
See if this Forum thread helps you:
https://my.mastersamuraitech.com/appliance-repair-course-support/student-forums/topic/cs7/
-
AuthorPosts
