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Thanks!
Yes, please! If you could please reset the quiz for me, I’d appreciate it!
Thanks Scott and Susan, what you’re saying here makes logical sense. Good discussion!
Awesome thanks!
And if it’s easier, I can email someone a picture of the diagram. For some reason I can’t upload a picture of it in here.
Yes! Thank you!
My wife is a nurse, and she recently had a tech admitted who lacerated their hand working on an appliance. I wonder if it was a Frikkidaire??
Ha! Love it! It’s fun to say.
Yes, it does. Helps a ton! Thanks Sam!
Nate
July 17, 2019 at 4:17 pm in reply to: 2 questions I got wrong in Pressure Switches and Thermostats Quiz #16162Thanks!
July 15, 2019 at 8:57 am in reply to: Whoops! Made a mistake on 6.4 quiz – Natural Gas Distribution #16150Oh great, thanks, I’ll do that!
And yes – great practice paying attention to details!
Hi Susan,
If you wouldn’t mind explaining more on #5, that would be really helpful for me. I’ve just really been getting tripped up in this section on measuring voltage. Where to measure voltage, or ohms of resistance, when it should read zero volts vs 120 volts, etc.
I started working two weeks ago, riding along with the owner of an appliance repair company, and I’m realizing that translating what I’m learning in class, regarding testing voltage, is a bit of a challenge for me in real life situations. When I’m looking at real wires. I know I’ll get it all eventually, but right now I don’t feel super confident in my comprehension of it all!
Thanks,
Nate
July 10, 2019 at 6:02 pm in reply to: Using Schematics to Troubleshoot Appliances, Part 1 – Load Analysis #16126Sure, sorry, it’s the 3rd video on the Using Schematics to Troubleshoot Appliances, Part 1 page. It is around the 7 minute mark.
I think my confusion, by the way, is that I have been picturing the Electronic Control in the diagram as a load in a circuit. And earlier in the class, I thought I learned that if you have current in a closed circuit, that the circuit will read “zero volts” if you check the voltage within the circuit. But if it’s open at some point in the circuit, then you’d read, say, 120 volts at the point where it’s open, because there’s the potential for current there.
But I should instead be looking at this scenario as testing at a point on L1 (in this case at the P6 point) in relation to a point on the neutral line (in this case at the P7 point). And when we measure from L1 to Neutral, we should read roughly 120 volts.
Is that line of thinking correct?
Thanks!
Yes, I am able to see that. Thanks for explaining that! Makes sense!
Susan, I think it’s finally clicking, hopefully?
Can I ask (dumb question), what’s a “cam”? Is it a timer?
And then, I think my confusion was coming in because I was viewing the cam (In this case, Cam 10) as a switch. So to me it looked like Cam 10 was the same thing as T18. So it looked to me like T18 was connected between T17 and T18. But that’s T18, and not Cam 10.
Cam 10 has neutral running to it via T16, and then right after it, it’s T17. So that’s why it’s connected to T16 and T17?
Same thing with Cam 8. It has the neutral line running from T13 to it on one arm, and then T16 after it.
Am I finally getting it??
Thanks!
Nate
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