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Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. To answer your question:
All infinite switches work in the fundamentally the same way. You have a bimetal that gets heated as current flows through the switch, and how often that bimetal actuates depends on the setting of the switch. In this way, all infinite switches are current-regulated devices.
As for swapping out an infinite switch, you would just need to make sure that they have comparable specs.
Could you let me know exactly which video or bit of text you’re referring to? That will help me explain this.
But in general, if we refer to taking a measurement between two points, we’re referring to the points in the circuit where we would place our probes. Those measurement points often do line up with the dots on a schematic, since those dots often indicate connectors where measurements are convenient.
In computer-controlled refrigerators, the thermistors tell the control board what temperature the compartments are. If a thermistor has gone out of spec to such an extent that it’s telling the control board that the compartments are already cold, then the control might decide not to run the evaporator fan or the compressor at all. To the board, the compartments feel like they’re at the correct temps already and don’t need any cooling.
Make sense?
Slave systems are covered in module 1, unit 12 — the one on dual evaporator systems. Review that unit for more info on them, and let me know if any of it doesn’t make sense.
Three-phase power output requires three outputs — one for each phase. So yes, three pins. You would simply hook up the tester to all three pins and test that way.
Hi Shawn,
I see where the confusion is coming from — we’re not talking about the solenoid becoming literally flakey — as in bits of it flaking off. We’re using flakey in the non-literal sense, meaning that the solenoid has become unreliable and started to fail.
Because metal expands and shifts slightly when you heat it up, if there are any micro-breaks in the solenoid coil, they can cause the solenoid to operate correctly at first, and then go open after it’s begun to heat due to the current flowing through it. This is called failing under load. Heating the coils with a hair dryer simulates this and lets you quickly see if this is the issue you’re facing.
So the test in question would be to first energize the solenoid, then heat it up with the hair dryer and see if it goes electrically open.
Hi Shawn,
Using the schematic, you would first identify the pin on the main control that outputs the PWM signal. Then, you would simply measure that with your meter with respect to a valid DC ground. Note DC ground, not AC ground. That’s all there is to taking a frequency measurement.
How is this test conducted? the tool has three leads so I’m gathering that this would be hooked up to the MCU or the motor but not sure.
You would simply hook it up to the output of the MCU while it’s trying to run the motor. That way, the tester can see if the MCU is putting out a valid three-phase power supply.
Can a data communication line transmit data back and forth or only in one direction?
Yes, it can transmit data signals in both directions! Sometimes you will see more than one data line connecting boards, but often you do only have one. But that does not necessarily mean that only one board is doing the talking. In fact, you almost always have two-way communication happening in multi-bard configurations.
“Cold” is a relative term. Refrigerant that has left the evaporator coils and is on its way to the compressor is generally around room temperature. But you’re right in that it is relatively cooler compared to after it goes through the compressor. By the time the refrigerant leaves the compressor, it will have heated up significantly compared to before it entered the compressor.
August 18, 2021 at 1:47 am in reply to: Module 4 Unit 1 Dryer Air Movement and Venting Systems #22504Dryer vent pressures don’t vary too much from brand to brand, so yes, the tester should work regardless of the brand.
As shown in the diagram, L1 is being removed from the heater. We’re not talking about unplugging the entire appliance — just removing the L1 spade from the heating element.
The reason for doing this is to isolate L1 and L2 from each other in order. This is because, if both are connected to the heater, whichever line isn’t missing (in this case L1) will feed through the heater to the L2 side of the circuit, making it impossible to distinguish which is actually missing. However, once you have one of the lines disconnected, the lines are completely isolated from each other, so you can tell which one reads 120 volts wrt neutral (meaning that it’s present) and which one reads 0 volts wrt neutral (meaning that it’s missing).
Once you’ve identified which line isn’t making it to the heating element, that’s when you would proceed with your troubleshooting to find out why that line is missing. For example, it could be missing at the wall outlet, or there could be an open elsewhere in the circuit.
July 5, 2021 at 10:36 pm in reply to: Module 5, unit 3 relationship between control board and thermistor. #22262Great question, Troy — the explanation in the Kleinert book is badly worded and confusing. That’s why we don’t recommend it as a textbook and only as a reference.
This image has a better explanation of what’s going on. This type of circuit configuration is called a voltage divider, and the CPU essentially acts as a voltmeter, with one “lead” connected to ground, and the other connected to the hot side of the thermistor. That’s how the CPU detects the voltage drop across the thermistor.
Hi Brian,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you — you’re basically spot-on. The only correction I have is to this statement:
If it was working correctly you would read 0 v because the voltage is dropped across the evaporator fan.
The reason you read 0 VAC across the contacts at the Jazz board is because the switch is closed. A closed switch should have no voltage difference across it — it acts just like a section of wire.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Hi Davon,
That lid switch is very confusingly drawn, and it’s a situation where you have to use your knowledge of how circuits have to work in order to puzzle out what’s going on. I’ve explained how it works in more detail in this post: https://my.mastersamuraitech.com/appliance-repair-course-support/student-forums/topic/mod-3-unit-1/
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