Rudi

[Rudi]

Typically it is some days here and there, but in the fall it’s pretty much a couple months non-stop. Normally, I work about 2 or 3 days setting up then go back for the dismantle for a day or two. So, I can schedule calls around that, but it’s hard to pin down. Last minute jobs come up and other times jobs get canx or we work less time than the estimate. It’s pretty fluid. Anyway, the way the world has been going the last several decades, I think it is pretty common for people to cobble together a living from having a few different sources of income. It’s just a bit of a juggling act.

[Rudi]

I see. I guess I was reading without taking the full context of the process into account. Thanks.

[Rudi]

I went over to Appliantology and am watching this video:

https://appliantology.org/topic/62556-mst-office-hours-432017-troubleshooting-gas-range-burner-spark-ignition-problems/

Hopefully, I can get a better idea about DSI modules from this webinar.

[Rudi]

I guess I wasn’t clear in my initial question. Thanks for the reply.

[Rudi]

Maybe I’m not being clear. I’m doing the range and oven course and I’m asking about ranges and ovens. The case study is on Ranges and Ovens. Anyway, not that important. Just change the TCO and assume it normal wear and tear?

[Rudi]

Thanks for the reply Samurai. I was actually wondering if there are conditions we could be on the lookout for when we encounter an open TCO in a range or oven circuit. I was asking because when we talk about dryers, we talk about finding the reason it blew and addressing it, rather than pocketing the money and leaving after replacing the TCO. So, when we find an open TCO such as in the Case Study, is there something we should be on the look out for?

[Rudi]

Thank you Susan!

[Rudi]

Thank you for such a timely and thorough reply. So, if we test N at T17 wrt L1 at the load and get 120 VAC, that means voltage is present up to that point in N. Then we move our lead to T13 and get 0 VAC, it means that the timer contact at T13 is stuck open and we need to replace the timer. I really appreciate you taking the time to reiterate the process that you already explained but I did not completely grasp. I am also watching the webinar you recommended above in this thread on the TST (TM) and the Timer Chart Cha-Cha (TM) to further reinforce my comprehension of circuits and schematics! Thank you!! I think one of the most helpful things you have said is to just focus on the LOI and it’s circuit. In the past, when I have attempted to use schematics and timer charts, I get all distracted and befuddled by processes that have nothing to do with the problem. It seems obvious, but I guess it needs to be pointed out.

[Rudi]

On the first video, we have a very detailed and helpful explanation of how to read the schematic in conjunction with the esterline chart. I have watched it several times and I was wondering how we reached the conclusion that we had a bad timer contact. It seems like at a certain point, you started explaining about how to detect or when to suspect an open neutral, but I was expecting to get back to the schematic and be shown what procedures led to the solution you mentioned at the beginning of the video. We used the schematic to get a thorough understanding of the circuit, but we did not do any tests to find that open neutral. Or I just completely missed something very important.

[Rudi]

I see. Thanks.

[Rudi]

So, 30 Million Ohms? How much is a mega here? If the coil is operating off 24 vac. Anyway, not terribly important. I’m trying to split hairs, it’s just they throw in this mysterious “M” for which there is no preceding explanation that I am aware of.

[Rudi]

Oops. I see in 7-10 says “using the ohmmeter…” So M represents ohms. Thanks.

[Rudi]

Thanks. After I posted this, I realized that the possibilities I listed were a bit arcane, because in a newer dryer, we might be talking about a control board malfunction, such as relay stuck open. Thank you.

[Rudi]

Hello. I would like to piggy back on this question regarding problem number 9 in the midterm exam and the corresponding video in Module 4 Unit 6 Circuit Breaker Panels and Power Outlets. In the video and the Midterm exam problem, we are troubleshooting an electric dryer heating element not getting hot. I missed this on the midterm because I ran out of time (I actually had typed in an answer, but I guess I exceeded the time limit because I went back to the lesson to rewatch the video so I would have a better grasp of how to answer). So, my first question is: when we say L1 or L2 is “missing”, what exactly do we mean? Is L1 (or L2) “missing” in the sense that it does not have current flow, as I assume? If so, would we not be able to determine that from testing L1 (or L2) at the power outlet? I mean it would be simpler to do so than get in the guts (disassemble) and and run the HE (or are we making these tests from the timer with just the back of the control panel open? I just don’t understand exactly what we mean when we say such and such a line is “missing”. I understand from the outcome of both the problem in the video and the test that ultimately, we were reading VOLTAGE and not VOLTAGE DROP when we read 120 Vac from Line 1 (or 2) to N because if the heater was not getting current, there would be no voltage drop. So, in the Module 4 Unit 6 video, we came to the conclusion that Line 2 was missing, while in the Midterm Problem number 9, we had the exact same problem and process (half-splitting the circuit), but in the Midterm it was Line 1 that was missing rather than Line 2, just to make sure we were actually paying attention and grasping the lesson rather than going back and forth and copying the diagnosis in the lesson. The reason you put that video in that lesson is presumably because the problem had to do with the Power Supply, since the Unit is about Circuit Breakers and Power Outlets. So, on a service call with that complaint, the best practice would be to test the outlet, correct? If the outlet tested good, and we came to the conclusion that the Line (1 or 2) was missing, would a continuity test from the prong of the power cord to the contact on the back of the machine, to check for a break in the line in the cord, be the next test? If the the wall outlet was supplying the correct voltage and the power cord had continuity in L1 and L2, then we would look for a break in the L1 and L2 conductors from the timer to the heating element, I suppose. I’m just trying to envision the real world service call or repair and how that would play out. I imagine there could also be some fault in the terminals or spade connectors at some point in the L1 or L2 circuit to the HE. I also presume that your lesson is based on scenarios that you have encountered with some frequency in your fun and rewarding career as a Master Appliantologist. I hope these questions are not too obtuse, I really want to learn and understand this material. Thank you.

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