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1.on your first video at 19:20 on the right end of the schematic there is an component called out as OVERNIGHT READY FAN,whats its function?
If you saw this on a schematic that you were using on a service call, where you go to get more info on that component? Is this an AC or DC motor? what do fans do? What would you speculate that this fan might be for?
2.at the same timestamp how can i tell if the inverter board is a whol unit withe the main control board wereas its shown as separate? what are the dead giveaway that the inverter board and main control is a whole unit?
You’re looking right at the answer on the schematic. What motor do you see there that would be driven by an inverter? What are the lines connecting to that motor? What are the inputs to an inverter? Do you see those on the schematic?
3.why does the hall sensor itself not show on the schematic just like on other schematics but rather only the conections between the inverter to the main board?
How would showing the hall sensor help you troubleshoot it? Can you troubleshoot a component if you know its inputs and outputs but don’t have an actual drawing or image of the component?
4.on you fisrst video at 21:40 minutes the is a dashed line named cycle signal whats it function?and why does the machin needs to have it?
By this point, you should be able to read the circuit and see what load that cycle signal line connects to (the dotted line means it’s optional equipment that may or may not be present on the model you’re working on). What load is that circuit powering?
5.near the drain pump to its left is a PTC WAX MOTOR what its fuction? furthermore below the presure switch to the right there is a WAX MOTOR SWITCH that as i suppose,actuates the above mentioned wax motor
Don’t know without pulling the full tech sheet. In general, wax motors are used to actuate switches. The fact that this wax motor is parallel to the drain pump leads me to conclude that this wax motor is somehow used in the drain circuit. Question for you: Is the wax motor involved in the variable speed drive system, which is the point of this video?
ho almost forgot at the same timestamp over the bldc motor there is a little triangle facing down with number 4 beside it, what does it represent?
How is the motor grounded?
i looked through the timer chart and contrasted both coloumns of spin and ther is no deference in the closed switchs theyr all the same.
Exactly. Since the “spin” sections in each cycle are electrically the same, then it doesn’t matter which I choose. If you think about it, it makes sense that both “spins” should be electrically identical.
below the timer chart are the names of cycles and you chose the fill and agitate but if you count 3 coloumns to the right you see another fill and agitate and even anoter one above the permanent press so how did you know which one to choose?
First, keep in mind we’re just looking at the “Normal Heavy/Regular” cycle. Within that cycle, there are two “spins.” Now look at the switches that are closed in each “spin” part of the timing chart. Do you see any differences?
secondly at 28:00 minutes there is a triangle with the letters P1 inside it just beneath the timer prong 31 over on the left and another one over the timer motor with the letters P2 inside it what are those?
I think you mean a RECTANGLE with P1 or P2 in it, NOT a triangle. Not seeing any triangles at that time stamp. Also, I don’t know what you mean by “timer prong.”
Pop quiz: Are those RECTANGLES loads or switches?
The tech sheet elsewhere describes P1 and P2. They were not covered video because they are not relevant to what was being taught in the video: using the timing chart to trace out the schematic for your load of interest.
but its also written that suds in the drain hose can send the message to the board that there is still water in the machine, thus canceling the spin cycle and leaving the clothes wet.
That was a shorthand way of referring to the excess suds in the drain hose and tub/drum. The actual mechanism of how the suds are detected is through the pressure hose as I explained in my previous reply.
how can the drain hose send a massage to the board?
It doesn’t do this directly. Suds in the drain hose is an indication of backed up suds which can then clog up the pressure dome. The actual mechanism of detection is the pressure trapped in the pressure tube and detected by the pressure sensor. I have clarified the wording in that unit.
secondly why would the pcb call off the spin leaving the clothes wet in this case,it stands to reason that if it sends a massage to the pcb about water being present in the tub the pcb ought to do the revers,and keep spining until no water left
The pressure sensor is still telling the PCB that there is water in the tub/drum (due to air trapped the pressure tube from suds clogging the pressure dome). The computer doesn’t know it’s suds, it only knows what the pressure sensor tells it. So the computer is programmed to stall or rev up and down the spin cycle in an attempt to clear the “water.”
how the machin can detect suds ?
Usually by the pressure sensor or transducer. Suds will gum up the pressure dome on the side of the tub or drum which traps pressure in the hose. The pressure sensor sees this pressure and sends this information to the computer. The computer interprets pressure as water level. It doesn’t know any better. How could it? It only knows what the sensor tells it. The computer is executing software programmed by humans who have to make assumptions about certain readings, such as pressure in the tub/drum is taken to mean remaining water.
and if it calls for an extra spin cycles would it do over the wash too, filling the tub again and respin?
You’re getting into how the computer is programmed to react. We aren’t privy to the software. But I can tell you that I’ve never seen a washer computer start the entire cycle over again just because the program detects/interprets suds. Usually they just ramp the spin speed up and down, maybe spray in a some water, but all in an attempt to clear the pressure/water and restore balance (which will cause this problem, too).
Okay, so where does the VAC -> VDC current -> Flame current arrive from? Where does any current arrive from (Flame current or “Electronic” current)? Is the gap the resistance to create the load?
Current is a directed stream of electrons. They cannot move on their own. Electrons movement is caused by a voltage difference between two points in a complete circuit. In the case of a cooktop burner spark, the current– electrons screaming across the 3 mm gap– is caused by that 15 kV potential difference between the electrode tip and the grounded burner head.
In this sense, you can think of the air gap as the technical load of interest. What affects the air gap? You have a spark electrode that’s anchored in place so its position doesn’t change. But what about the burner head? Not anchored, can be removed by hand with no tools for cleaning and so it also prone to being reassembled incorrectly. So as a practical matter, the functional load of interest becomes the burner head.
In the video it just mentions all of a sudden current of 4 microAmp to 5 microAmp current??
That’s a typical spec for spark current in that circuit. It’s an FYI. What you should see is that although the voltage for this circuit is about 15 kV, the amps in this circuit are really tiny.
The gap “resistance” is now missing when the flame originates.
When the flame is established, the gap resistance DOES NOT disappear– it CHANGES. That’s the whole point of flame rectification. A reignition module uses this physical property of flames to detect when a flame is established vs when it is not.
You may be interested in watching this webinar recording at Appliantology to see these principles applied to various gas burner systems: https://appliantology.org/topic/62556-mst-office-hours-432017-troubleshooting-gas-range-burner-spark-ignition-problems/
This lesson, Module 3 Unit 6 in the Advanced Washer/Dryer course, is about “Split Phase Drive Motors and Timers in Top Load Washers.” Where in the video was sudsing discussed?
I’ve come to the conclusion that it appears the N line is not switched at all and the switch actually takes place on L1.
That’s exactly what’s shown on the schematic. You can see it really readily in the schematic on the LH side of the PDF tech sheet.
so if my cloths come out dirty i may suspect the recirc pump as one of the culprits,right?
That would be something to check, yes. An inop recirc pump won’t always generate a poor washing complaint– depends on the customer, some don’t notice. But you can still check it as part of your overall unit operations test in service mode.
“what excatly do you mean by RECICULATING THE WATER?
i didnt realy understand why the washing machin even needs to have this kind of extra pump”Like the name says, the recirc pump simply recirculates the water in the wash basket. The manufacturers use these in HE top load washer because their lower water use and using impellers instead of agitators means the clothes are not stirred as frequently during the wash cycle. The recirc pump helps improve water circulation around the clothes and to improve cleaning results.
“lasly,why over sudsing may bring about an extended spin cycle? ”
The excess suds can block the pressure dome with the air pressure tube making the control think there’s still water in the tub and extending the drain cycle.
” and when you said OUT OF BALLANC is one of the causes of extended cycle what did you mean by that? in other words what can cause out of ballance situation?”
If the washer control sense an imbalance during spin, it will ramp the spin speed down in an attempt to distribute the load more evenly. This usually works IF the imbalance is caused by unevenly distributed clothes. But if the imbalance is caused by something external, like one of the foot pads not being set down fully, then the washer will continually stall the spin cycle thus extending it.
“So the cam is controlling the bi-metal tension which controls the bi-metal ability to open/close the switch from current “heat” passing through it.”
Yes.
“That is some cool science/engineering.”
It’s very cool in its own micro-world way. I want to thank you for your question because it made me realize we needed more explanation in that unit. I’ve added some additional material there. Look it over and let me know what you think.
Keep in mind that the purpose of the video was to show you various water level sensing technology. The video was showing you examples of specifications. The associated control setting for the various frequencies and water levels may have been given elsewhere in the tech sheet but it was not shown or discussed because that’s not the point of the video. You will use whatever specs are given to you on the tech sheet/service manual. I showed you examples of those specs.
“If the switch is set to “low heat” or “simmer” to the element, the current traveling to the element through H2 L2 through the infinite switch is always going to be the same no matter if is is High Heat or Low Heat, correct? ”
Yes. But the current is being switched on and off according to the opening and closing of the bimetal. With the switch set to “high,” the bimetal stays longer, element stays on and hot longer. With the switch set to simmer, the bimetal stays open longer, may only close momentarily every couple os seconds, as an example. WHEN the bimetal is closed, the amps are the same regardless. But amps go to zero when the bimetal opens.
“What controls how long the bi-metal opens and closes and at what speed if the current is the same going through the bi-metal for the desired temperature? ”
The specific metals used in the bimetal and their thickness and length. It’s an arcane sub-genre of materials engineering. And the amount of tension the cam puts on the bimetal strip.
“So what does the cam do? What effect does it have on the bi-metal (if any) to open and close more often on/off longer or shorter cycles?”
The cam breaks the L1-H1 connection when the switch is in the off position. And it puts tension on the bimetal strip to adjust the how often it opens and closes. The cutaway view of the infinite switch in the video is shown in the off position.
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This reply was modified 2 years ago by
Samurai Appliance Repair Man.
“but these settings STEAM RESET,STAEM SET, FOAM RESET,FOAM SET MAIN SET etc.. what are those ?
are those the settings imprinted on the machine ?”Yes, they’re what the customer sees on the control panel. They would be explained in the customer’s use and care guide and the service manual. That’s the main thing to know: where to go to get the info you need to troubleshoot.
“for example lets take the main set/2.85″/41.71 Hz i know my frequency but why should i know the inches if im not gonne measure the hight of the water anyway?”
You’re usually just going to eyeball the water level to see that it increases with each setting and that the frequency is in spec at each level. If you wanted to measure a water level, just use your tape measure.
“why are the amounts of water are given in inches rather than litters?”
Two reasons: 1) Because this is from a US model and we use Imperial units, not metric, and 2) inches is a measure is length (or height of the water in the tub); liters are a measure of volume (length x width x height). As the name says, the water LEVEL sensor is measuring the height of the water in the tub, not the volume of water in the tub. To convert to liters, in addition to the height of water in the tub, you need the circumference of the tub, NOT the basket, the tub which is outside the basket. This is not our job. That’s the manufacturer’s job and then they give us the specifications. Your job as a tech is to ensure that the equipment is operating in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications. Use the specs. Trust the specs. And love the specs cuz that’s all you’ve got to work with.
“and how am i suppossed to messure those inches of water in order to know what frequency i should read on my meter?”
WHY would you want to measure the inches of water? The manufacturer is TELLING you what the frequency SHALL BE at a given setting. Period. THAT is your spec. THAT is what you test for.
” for example if my frequency is checked good when the machine is empty should i create another check point by filling a certian amount of water and make a comparison ”
Easy enough to do because you’re already right there is self test mode. Couple of button pushes and you’re testing frequency at another setting.
“how can i use those inches vs frequency and use them in practice ,to determin if my pressur switch is in specs?”
What’s the specification?
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This reply was modified 2 years ago by
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